Rishikesh
Uttarakhand, India
A winter day on the Ganga above Rishikesh — jade-green water, smooth river boulders and the Shivalik foothills closing in on both banks.
The river in February
I reached Rishikesh in early February 2025, straight after climbing Chandrashila in the snow. Coming down from the cold, the Ganga felt almost warm by comparison — and in winter it runs clear and green instead of the brown monsoon flow most photos show.
Most of the day went on the riverbank upstream of the main town, where the crowds thin out and the river is lined with huge, water-polished rocks. It's the kind of place where you sit on a boulder for an hour and only notice the time because the light on the hills has changed.
Why winter works
February is one of the best months to be here. The days are sunny and mild, the evenings cool, and the river is calm and clean. Rafting season is starting up again, but the beaches along the bank are still quiet on weekdays.
What I'd do again
- Walk upstream along the river instead of staying around the bridges
- Sit on the rocks through the afternoon and watch the colour of the water change with the light
- Treat it as a slow recovery stop after a trek — it's perfect for that
For a full guide to the walks, waterfalls and forest trails around town, read my Rishikesh nature guide.
